Just a friendly reminder that we will be closed for the Thanksgiving holiday on Thursday, November 23rd, 2017. We will also be closed on Friday, November 24th.
We’ll resume all operations on Monday, November 27th.
Thank you for your understanding. We hope you all have an enjoyable Thanksgiving!
We’ll be attending this year’s Formula Drift event at Irwindale Speedway on October 13-14, 2017.
Rumors abound that this will be the last Formula D event at this specific track (which has been the same rumor for the past five years or so; seems to be a legitimate claim this time).
As always, we’ll have our merchandise for sale, as well as some products on display.
We’ll also be bringing some discounted coilovers that we brought to JCCS (which was kind of a last-minute notice).
*These are technically used coilover kits (test & evaluation). In actuality, they were mostly used for fitment testing and for obtaining ride height adjustment range data and were not really driven on. These kits will be sold as-is and without warranty.
GSB14-1UAS2
GSK10-1UAS2
GSP26-1UAS2
GSHD6-1USS2
VSM40-C1SS1
DSE20-LUSS2
GSB90-51SS3
See special pricing below:
*Prices are for cash payment (we will not be able to process credit card transactions during Formula D)
***We will only be bringing qty 1 of each part number listed. The list below is solely to show applicable vehicle models by part number***
This weekend is the Japanese Classic Car Show in Long Beach, by the Queen Mary! We’ve been attending for the past 5 years, and while it may not seem like our kind of customer base, we do get our fair share of product inquiries for suspension for older Japanese vehicles.
We’re not necessarily posting about our past experiences at JCCS, or what new products we’re making. In fact, our SPECIALIZED DAMPER PROGRAM still exists and is what we refer these types of customers to, since it’s applicable to nearly all vehicle makes and models.
Instead, I wanted to mention that once again we’ll be there, and of course we’ll have our TEIN merchandise on sale, as well as some of our products on display (and a pair of S30’s on our SPECIALIZED DAMPERS!). We’ll also have some TEIN suspensions that we’re clearing out and at a special price!!! While there aren’t many of these kits that we’re bringing, we’re sure there are some customers with these vehicle applications that might be interested.
These kits were used for test fitment and ride height measurement testing by our Research & Development department. So they are practically brand new with some installation scratches.
BASIC/DSE20-LUSS2 (for 2008+ Mitsubishi Lancer)
STREET BASIS/GSB14-1UAS2 (for 2006-2011 Honda Civic, Incl. Si models)
STREET BASIS/GSHD6-1USS2 (for 2013+ Honda Accord)
STREET BASIS/GSK10-1UAS2 (for 2007-2012 Nissan Altima)
STREET BASIS/GSP26-1UAS2 (for 03-08 Nissan 350Z/03-08 Infiniti G35 Coupe & Sedan)
STREET FLEX/GSB90-51SS3 (for 08-12 Honda Accord/09-14 Acura TSX)
FLEX Z/VSM40-C1SS1 (for 90-05 Mazda MX-5 Miata)
Special pricing on the right side column (in bold):
****CASH ONLY. ALL PRICES ARE FINAL. NO REFUNDS****
****First come, first served-NO RESERVATIONS/HOLDS****
*****Kits sold in as-is condition; no warranty*****
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While this car has been out of production for well over 20 years now, we still find that the 1992-1995 Honda Civic is still a good seller in terms of our suspension products. Many older vehicles don’t really fare so well when it comes to aftermarket parts. Many parts being discontinued due to little demand. However, Civics of this generation are still very popular platforms to modify, and there are still plenty of them on the road, whether in sedan, coupe, or hatchback form.
Many of our customers should be well aware that TEIN is adamant of technological innovation in suspension. In fact that is a huge part of the name “TEIN” (TEchnological INnovation). Year after year we always look into ways to improve our suspensions and we try, as much as possible, to offer various kits to make it easier for the customer to choose the correct kit for their needs.
With that said, we’re still working on developing suspension for the ’92-’95 Civic. Currently, we’re working on the specifications for our upcoming STREET BASIS Z & STREET ADVANCE Z applications. While this line has been out for a few years now, we had yet to release it for these model years of Civic.
Why bother with testing, especially if we already have existing STREET BASIS and STREET ADVANCE coilovers? Why not just carry over the same specs of that kit to the newer Z line? That would be the easy way of doing it. However, we rely very heavily on customer feedback when deciding what spring rates and what type of valving we will designate for each application. Over the years, our customers’ mindsets have changed. In the past, we were making suspension kits that were very aggressive in terms of springs and valving, mainly because the customers were expecting a very sporty ride feel. While great for track driving, they proved to be very harsh for the street, especially if it was for a daily driver.
Over the years, we’ve taken the time to revise our tuning philosophy for suspension. Making dedicated street suspensions such as the STREET BASIS and STREET ADVANCE lines, we wanted good performance with uncompromising comfort to be the emphasis.
That, along with other updated suspension components like our Advance Needle (for damping adjustable suspension), and piston valve designs, different shim designs, etc. , means that we must retest certain vehicle platforms to make sure there is no degradation in either performance or comfort. Simply trying to carry over an old specification into a new suspension doesn’t always work out so well.
So, back to testing the ’92-’95 Civic and finding that good balance we’re looking for! Actually, since we’re on the topic of this car, we’re planning to revise the spring rates for the front (from 7kg/mm to 9kg/mm). That may not sound logical, since we’re trying to set up a good street kit with ample comfort. But, with the prototype valving we’re testing on it, it is working perfectly!!
Oh, and I forgot to mention- look for the new STREET BASIS Z to start around $450 and STREET ADVANCE Z at $550 for this platform Civic when it’s released later this year!
We have some literature about our products that explain the type of materials we use in our suspension kits. One of the terms we hear for our spring seats and seat locks (for adjusting ride height, for example) and upper spring seats/adaptors is that they’re made from “wrought aluminum”.
If you’re like me, then maybe the first thing that comes to mind is wrought iron, as in wrought iron fences. Of course, this made me want to look up exactly what wrought aluminum is, since I couldn’t get the picture of fence materials being used on our suspension….
A quick look for the definition of “wrought” describes it as follows:
“Beaten out or shaped by hammering”
In manufacturing, that would be considered forging. However, they can also be roll formed. Sometimes rotary forging can be used. And, looking further into our spring seat and seat lock designs, we use A6061 aluminum forgings that are T6 tempered.
We use a few different grades of aluminum alloy for our suspension components (A2017, A6061, A7075).
Most of our aluminum comes in large bar stock. However, we have aluminum stock that comes in various shapes and sizes, depending on what we’ll machine them into.
We’ll cut the aluminum into smaller dimensions prior to milling the pieces we need.
This “T6” tempering is a precipitation hardening process that allows the aluminum alloy to increase its yield strength.
A6061 aluminum has become more commonplace in manufacturing. It is a lightweight and very strong aluminum alloy that is used in anything from aerospace industry to even the bicycle industry, and many other products are made with this material. As far as machining goes, it is a relatively easy material for us to work with.
So, after all that bit of research, I’m now more aware of what wrought aluminum is. And after looking up what we use for our spring seats and seat locks, it’s nice to know we’re using high quality components for our suspension kits (which I’m already aware of!!!).
We just finished up some testing on the 2017 Subaru BRZ (and which would of course affect the 2017 Toyota 86). While the vehicles aren’t drastically different compared to 2012-2016 model years of the aforementioned vehicles (the 86 previously named the Scion FR-S), there are some small changes in suspension that affect how our existing coilovers feel.
TEIN Japan currently sells part numbers VSTD8-C1SS4 for the FLEX Z line, VSTD-D1SS4 for the FLEX A line, & GSTD8-71SS4 for the MONO SPORT line for their market.
Stateside, we currently sell the VSQ54-C1SS4 for FLEX Z and GSQ54-71SS1 for the MONO SPORT line. For the FLEX A, we previously sold the VSQ54-D1SS4 model number. Now we sell the VSTD8-D1SS4. For the MONO SPORT line, we’re looking to start selling TEIN Japan’s GSTD8-71SS1, since there isn’t much variation between the U.S. and JDM spec.
Phew, that’s a lot of part numbers…..
So, why the change to FLEX A part number VSTD8-D1SS4?
The reason is that there are a lot of similarities between the U.S. part numbers for FLEX A and FLEX Z. If you’re not familiar with either, we’ll just say that the FLEX A includes our proprietary Hydraulic Bump Stop (H.B.S.) and is also a serviceable damper (can be rebuilt/revalved). In terms of cost, the FLEX A is $210 more.
Since the features are really the only noticeable difference, we had to look at damping force between the JDM and US kits to see what would work best for our market. The U.S.-spec FLEX A and FLEX Z both had very similar damping characteristics. Aside from the H.B.S. setup in the FLEX A’s, they feel nearly identical.
With that said, we wanted there to be difference between the two kits. Something that will help differentiate the two when a customer decides what they’ll be using the kit for.
So, we recently started offering the newer part number of FLEX A, the JDM version, part number VSTD8-D1SS4. These actually have a difference in damping, being more aggressive. We feel this may end up being a better option for the more-than-occasional track driven car owner. Being a serviceable damper, this also will allow owners the ability to revalve the dampers for different spring rates, if necessary. Along with being slightly more aggressive, the damping adjustment range is shifted up slightly, giving the end-user a higher range of tuning flexibility at the track.
That’s not to say that the FLEX Z isn’t at all capable of track use. However, we wanted this setup to offer greater compliance for a daily commuter, while still having an available adjustment range that allows for much more sportier handling characteristics. Comfort was just more of our aim for this kit, and it is greatly noticeable on larger bumps as high-speed compression is softer and more forgiving.
FLEX Z and FLEX A coilovers will look nearly identical. But, as mentioned in this blog, there are some features that FLEX A has over the Z line: Hydraulic Bump Stop, serviceable dampers (rebuild/revalve), and slightly more aggressive valving out of the box.
So, as far as a total breakdown of each suspension offering we have for the FR-S/86/BRZ:
STREET BASIS Z (GSQ54-8USS2)– perfect for daily driver not looking to sacrifice OE ride feel but improve handling performance, while being ride height adjustable.
FLEX Z (VSQ54-C1SS4)– high performance street kit, with 16-click damping adjustment and included upper mounts (camber adjustable for front).
FLEX A (VSTD8-D1SS4)– higher performance street kit/occasional track kit with aggressive damper valving, but with a greater adjustment range for ease of tuning. Included Hydraulic Bump Stop (H.B.S.) providing greater control and damping stability against repulsive compression force. Includes upper mounts as well (camber adjustable for front).
MONO SPORT (GSTD8-71SS1)– entry-level race setup with single adjustable damping. Monotube internal structure with greater oil capacity for better endurance and performance for long track stints. Also utilizes are Micro Speed Valve (M.S.V.) to improve low-speed damping curve. Includes upper mounts as well (camber adjustable for front).
SUPER RACING (DSQ54-81LS1)– 2-way damping adjustable setup for dedicated track cars, suitable for cars with R-compound or softer tires. Lightweight (full aluminum rear damper assembly), and included duralumin upper mounts (camber & caster adjustable for front) and camber washers for front.
Hopefully this info helps. If not, you’re more than welcome to give us a call to discuss your suspension options!
To our valued customers and TEIN USA Blog readers,
Please note that we will be closed on Tuesday, July 4th in observance of the American Independence Day holiday.
We will resume our daily operations on Wednesday, July 5th.
Thank you for your understanding. We hope you all have an enjoyable and safe 4th of July, you Hulkamaniacs!!!
This week we had a new ND chassis Miata in for testing. FINALLY, after well over a year, we have our hands on one and can now verify fitment and do road testing.
We must say that, even though we can technically just special order available kits from TEIN Japan, we’ve found that there is, what we feel, a better setup that we’ll soon be making for the U.S. market. With that said, we’ll be making some changes when we put forward our FLEX Z and MONO SPORT damper kits for this platform.
Fortunately the changes aren’t that drastic. So, if you are one of the customers that had special ordered something like our STREET FLEX coilovers for the ND, you are able to make the changes if you want them to be more like the U.S. spec we’re planning to release (for the newer FLEX Z application).
Ride height drop, per our recommendations, is approximately -40mm lower front and rear.
Spring rates for the FLEX Z (U.S. spec) will be 6kg/mm front, 4kg/mm rear.
Spring rates for the MONO SPORT will be 7kg/mm front, 5kg/mm rear.
Once again, we’ve been given the opportunity to work closely with the guys at Toyota Motorsports as they build the brand new, redesigned Toyota Camry set to be released this Summer.
As we have done in the past few years, we’ve helped them develop suspension for the pace cars being used at NASCAR events nationwide. Fortunately, modifications to these pace cars are relatively limited. And that’s perfect for us, since we don’t really try to do anything that requires major modifications.
In the past, we’ve made the pace car suspensions modeled after our SUPER STREET line of suspension. While, for some, this setup may not seem like an ideal suspension for a car that has to be driven at relatively high speeds around either a large oval track or road course, they can more than suffice to the task if set up properly.
The specifications that the guys at Toyota Motorsports ask for are far from being something we’d normally offer for a street-driven car, which most of our customers are looking for. For the 2018 Camry, they need a really stiff setup. To that end, we’re using 14kg/mm front springs and 12kg/mm rear springs.
For the past few Camry platforms, we’ve been able to make a coilover kit that uses the factory upper mounts. However, for the 2018 Camry, we’re utilizing camber adjustable front mounts.
Since the rear is no longer a strut type suspension (now using a more commonplace separate spring and damper combination), the rear damper has a OEM style upper mount while the rear has an adjustable base for dialing in ride height.
Once our in-house engineer was able to get measurements on the new Camry, he contacted the engineers at TEIN Japan’s Specialized Damper division and had them carry on with the design and manufacture of the suspension. Within two weeks time, we had a pair of suspension kits air freighted to TEIN USA.
Now we’re off to Toyota Motorsports’ Torrance HQ to do our test fitment. Then it’s up to the guys to finish the pace car build and take it out to the track for assessment!
It’s quite clear that customers come to us looking to increase handling performance for their vehicles. After all, suspension upgrades are some of the most commonly made changes to vehicles. Fortunately, we’ve continued to make improvements to suspension technology that has proven results.
However, one overlooked aspect in handling is monitoring tire pressures. Of course, the type of tire and the appropriate size you use is also just as important, but you want to make sure that the tire pressures match what is necessary for your particular vehicle.
Clearly, not all tire manufactures are the same, and many have their own proprietary compounds and tire carcass construction. Each manufacturer has their own claims of how and why their tires perform better than their closest competitor. What tire works best for your needs is going to be up to you to find out for yourself. It really will be a bit of trial and error for you to find out your best tire. But, as the saying goes, you get what you pay for…
Tire pressure is important in that it not only inflates the tire, it gives the tire its structure and allows it to work as designed. For example, a tire with no pressure (just at ambient pressure) will just be deflated. The sidewalls will flex and the tread patch will actually cup (where the center portion of the tread isn’t actually in contact with the road surface). 15 psi (pounds per square inch) will finally add some structure to the tire, but still leave the sidewall of the tire improperly unsupported. Still, the tread patch will most likely be cupped under load. 25 psi will give more structure to the sidewall and the tire is finally starting to get a good contact patch on the road. Really low tire pressures can also cause greater heat build up in the tire and can cause a blow out. Up to about 32 psi, which most passenger cars tend to operate best at, the sidewall’s have greater support and now the tread patch has better coverage on the road.
Even under heavy loading, the sidewall provides enough support and control when tire pressure is optimized. Traction is also at its highest since the tread patch has greater surface area on the road.
Up from there, once you start exceeding the tire pressures past its recommended levels, even by just a few psi, the contact between the tread patch and road will be less, sidewalls even stiffer. You’ll even notice it in your steering, as it starts to become increasingly easy to turn. There comes a point where the contact patch between tread and road become too small and unsafe (especially on wet road surfaces). Also, the tire will be so stiff that there’s barely any give in the sidewall. You may very well be skipping over bumps on the road at higher speeds.
When racing, tire pressures should be monitored after every session out on track. As you can imagine, heat build up from driving will affect the internal pressure of the tire, typically increasing a few psi. These pressures don’t simply drop after a few minutes of cool down, so it may be necessary to bleed that extra build up of pressure so that you can maintain the performance of the tire. Otherwise you may spend some time altering other aspects of your car or driving style to make it handle better. Make note, however, of any changes you made to the pressure, especially if bleeding excess. Once your tire cools down, the pressures should be checked again and reset to recommended levels (especially if you’re driving home from the track on the same set of tires).
Gymkhana is actually very tough on tires. Driver’s depend on the predictability of their tires to be able to make quick transitions, using a combination of steering, braking, and accelerating to make the car rotate and navigate very tight turns.
For daily driving, as mentioned earlier, it is still important to monitor your tire pressures. Each corner won’t maintain the same pressure due to a number of factors. If your alignment is perfect or near perfect, but your car seems to be pulling either left or right, check your tire pressures to make sure they are at recommended levels. Uneven tire wear can also be a factor of tire pressure (however, so is alignment).
What it comes down to is finding the best balance in comfort, traction, and safety. Fortunately all tire manufacturers work out these details for you. It’s best to follow manufacturer recommendations, then making small changes (1 psi at a time; even 0.5 psi if you can notice the difference) to suit your preference.
So, be sure to check your tire pressures, if possible, on a weekly basis. Especially before and during a track day. Also, it is best to check the tire pressures when tires are cold (or when the vehicle has been at rest for a long period), unless as aforementioned it is between track sessions.