Category Archives: Tech

Technical tips direct from the source. Helping you save your time and money.

To Match or Not to Match

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Hey everyone its been a while but I’m back.  This post is gonna be about the different part numbers found on the lowering springs or dampers themselves.

Many folks call in wondering why the part numbers are different, which lowering  spring or damper is front or rear. Well here’s some info to help out all of those folks that are not so mechanically inclined.

              Each lowering spring and damper kit has an individual alphanumeric part number which is part of the manufacturing process and to also help determine whether the part is a front, rear , left or right as shown in the photos above.  The lowering spring shown have an even part number (partially matching the kit number SKS84-AUB00) which would indicate that the spring belongs in the front, and odd number would belong in the rear. The springs would also have an F (Front) or R (Rear) in the beginning of the part number designated its location. The last digits are the springs lot number. Note: the springs should always be installed so the printed part number is right side up.

Though the springs have an individual part numbers they cannot be purchased individually like dampers can. However the part numbers can help you determine where the spring belongs and what vehicle they belong on or are compatible with.

        The dampers have the same type of alphanumeric part number as the springs but have additional information as to its location, damper type and what application the damper is for. Older dampers ( exa. HR or NR dampers) would have the part number engraved into the lower section of the shock body.

I hope this helps clarify some part number you may encounter on either TEIN lowering springs or dampers. Next time I will go deeper into the part numbers of both the lowering springs and damper kits. Also a special thanks to our TEIN male model Jonathan Lee (the guy in the snazzy overalls NOT the one in the blue bikini) for his professional modeling. Keep it up and you might be on the TEIN Calander or even a TEIN Poster. LOL J/K . Thanks for the help Dude.

Coilover Spring Swap

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I have not really touched my EVO since my last track day back in May. The car felt the same, stable. Maybe too stable, meaning a tendency to understeer. I tried to compensate by aggressive trail braking and almost jerking the wheel to get weight transfer but the wide tires, wide body and aggressive aero keep the car super planted.

I have been meaning to try some different spring rates or R-comp tires for, hmmm… about the last 2 years. Spring rates and tires are VERY related. Higher grip tire = higher spring rates and vice versa. I am currently using 14kg front and 12kg rear springs plus slightly larger sway bars for front and rear. Over the past couple of years I have run Hankook RS2, Azenis RT-615 (non K), Continental CSC3 and Continental ExtremeContact DW. All street tires with similar performance. In my mind I thought my next purchase would always be a set of R-Compounds or extreme performance summer tire like an Advan Neova. But I just never seem to get there. I always end up buying something else, like my Voltex street front bumper, HKS V-Pro (which is sitting on a shelf in the garage), new DEFI Advance ZD, etc….

It FINALLY dawned on me that I should stop being lazy and just switch the springs to better suit the tires I always seem to use. A cheaper and more practice solution than spending $1300+ on tires. So last night I bought some softer springs (MSRP $120 per pair) and installed them. I went for a 2kg spring rate change. Now I have 12kg front and 10kg rear. The spring swap went relatively quickly. Depending on the damper we recommend a damper revalve if the spring rate is changed by +/- 2kg (for BASIC and Street Basis +/- 1kg since the damper is not damping force adjustable).

New 10kg springs for the rear. The 12kg originally on the rear will go to the front of the car since my setup uses SQ type springs for front and rear.

Here is a little useful information: This is how you can check what TEIN springs you have. The number printed on the spring is the individual spring part number. The part number listed on our website, catalog, etc…is a kit part number. So these springs are from kit part number SQ100-01175. The “SQ” designates a type of spring which is in this case is a standard straight spring, 65mm ID, 175mm free length.  The “100” after SQ is for the spring rate, 10kg. ex. 050 = 5kg. 140 = 14kg. “01175” is for the free length. Just pay attention to the last three digits which is the length. ex. 01200 = 200mm. 01150 = 150mm.

On the actual spring the part number is “Q100-GOC”. “Q” represents spring type, 65mm ID, 175mm free length. “100” is spring rate = 10kg. “QOC” is the LOT/ batch in which this spring was made.

First, I measured wheel center to fender height before starting. Maintaining the ride height will mean I will not need to do an alignment.

Not using the lift for this. (Getting lowered cars with aero parts on a normal lift is a pain. Got to drive up on ramps, use wood, adjust the risers on the arms, etc…) Simple jack and stands is quicker for something like this.

Started with the rear since my rear springs will go onto the front of my car. Super easy since my interior trunk panels are not installed.

I use Simple Green and a rag to clean off the coilovers. Then I inspect all components of the coilovers for damage, etc… I made a small adjustment in spring seat height to maintain ride height with the new softer spring rate. If the spring seat or damper length is not adjusted, the ride height will be lower due to the softer spring rate (softer spring will compress more = lower ride height).

Now for the front. Cool trick on the front of the EVO 8/9 and maybe older gens is that the front spring can be swapped without removing the damper. This means the alignment is not affected since you never even loosen the upright (hub bracket) bolts. Plus this saves LOTS of time.

Just remove the top nut then top mount. Then the spring can be removed and swapped through the strut tower. Depending on what type of tower bar you have, the bar may need to come off. My aluminum Carbing 3-pt. bar does not need to be removed as it has an open top design (quick spring change compatible and EDFC compatible).

Removed my EDFC motor first. Then I slowly removed the top nut with a 21mm deep socket. (Impact Guns need to be used with care as internal damper damage may occur if used excessively).

Used my leg to push the hub down and got the piston shaft out of the top mount. I just angled the damper in the fender well so it was out of the way while I removed the upper mount.

After removing the EDFC strut kit parts and upper spring seat the main spring comes right out.

After swapping the spring I re-installed the top mount then used a floor jack to lift the damper back up into the top mount. Jack was placed under the under arm and I slowly raised it up.  Re-tightened everything and re-installed the EDFC motor. Lastly I adjusted my shell case length by a few mm to maintain the original ride height.

I use a paint pen to mark the seat locks so I will know if they get loose. Be sure to torque the lower bracket lock.

Car back on the ground. I moved the car around to settle everything. Lastly I re-measured the wheel center to fender to ensure my ride height/ alignment has not changed.

All done. Now it is time for a test drive and a little fun. Hope to be testing the new spring rates next month at ButtonWillow Raceway.

Torque Your Dampers Pt. 2

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In continuation of covering the proper methods of torquing our dampers we will be covering how to torque the Top Lock Nut.

Torque Specs will not be covered this time around, only the proper methods for torquing. To find the correct Torque Specs for you vehicle’s dampers consult the Installation Manual that came with your kit. For those who have dampers that require use of the stock upper mounts, consult the factory torque specs.

If your dampers use TEIN  upper mounts but you don’t have the original Installation manual, contact us at 562-861-9161 or email at tus_sales@tein.com. We can send .pdf copies of our installation manuals to you.

Once again, the use of a table mounted vice to keep the dampers from moving (covered HERE) is recommended.

These are the tools needed to properly torque the Top Lock Nut:

1   Torque Wrench with Spanner Wrench Adapter (17mm and/or 14mm depending on your vehicle application)
1   3/8 Inch Torque Wrench (A 1/2 Inch Torque Wrench may not provide low enough torque settings)
1   21mm Socket
1   17mm Socket
1   14mm Socket
[Sockets needed depend on your vehicle application]
1   Open Ended 10mm Spanner Wrench
1   Open Ended 8mm Spanner Wrench
[Spanner Wrenches needed depend on your vehicle application]
1   Tein ADJ Wrench

Strut Type Dampers

Some Strut Type Dampers’  Piston Rods have notches machined into the top section [Pictured Below],

that correspond and line up with notches in the Upper Spring Seat [Pictured Below].

When assembling the damper make sure these notches line up. If they are not lined up while tightening the Top Lock Nut, the Piston Rod and/or the Upper Spring Seat will become damaged.

With everything assembled and lined up correctly; using the TEIN ADJ Wrench to hold the Upper Spring Seat and the 3/8 Inch Torque Wrench with the correct socket on the Top Lock Nut, turn until you hear the click.

Some Strut Type Dampers do not utilize a TEIN Upper Spring Seat. As the above method will not work for those dampers refer to the method used on SA Type Dampers below.

SA Type Dampers

SA Type Dampers’ Piston Rods have machined notches that accommodate a 8mm or 10mm Spanner Wrench.
[Pictured Below]
[Spanner Wrench size will vary depending on your vehicle application]

With everything assembled correctly; using the 8mm or 10mm Spanner Wrench to hold the Piston Rod and the Torque Wrench with Spanner Wrench Adapter to turn the Top Lock Nut, turn until you hear the click.

Caution: Over-torquing the Top Lock Nut can cause the Spanner Wrench to slip, damaging the Piston Rod Threads in the process.

If all else fails and an Impact Gun MUST be used, in accordance with our Instruction Manual, set the Impact Gun at the lowest torque possible. A 3/8 Inch Impact Gun is recommended as a 1/2 Inch Impact Gun may be too powerful and can break the Piston Rod. Also, make sure to use short bursts instead of a long continuous burst with the Impact Gun.

When tightening with an Impact Gun the Piston Rod must not be allowed to spin. The impact and high rate of spinning the Piston Rod can achieve when using an Impact Gun will loosen the internal nut and damage the damper.

For Strut Dampers, use a TEIN ADJ Wrench to hold the Upper Spring Seat while tightening the Top Lock Nut.

If your Strut Damper does not utilize an Upper Spring Seat that can be grabbed with a TEIN ADJ Wrench then follow the same instructions as the SA Damper below.

For SA Dampers, grab onto the Piston Rod with your fingers as such to prevent the Piston Rod from spinning. Do NOT grab the piston rod with pliers or any other tools as they may scratch the Piston Rod that will damage the Oil Seal and cause an oil leak.

Note: The use of an Impact Gun must be the absolute last resort. TEIN assumes no responsibility for broken or damaged dampers due to incorrect assembly and installation.

Tie Rod/Tie Rod Ends & Pillowball Tension Rods

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Okay so you are in 240sx at a stop light about to make a left then suddenly realize you need to make a U turn, but your not sure if you have enough space.  Well if you had TEIN Tie Rods and Ends you wouldn’t be doubting yourself.

The Tie Rods and Tie Rod Ends (combined) increase your steering angle, improve turning radius and are a huge improvement from  your OE parts.  These Tie rods and Tie rod ends are 10%-55% stronger than your OE parts (numbers vary depending on vehicle) due to the higher quality material and larger diameter of the components.

The kit comes with hardware for either an OE set up or anyone who wants a more aggressive steering angle or just beefier components.

Tie Rod kits start at $88.00

Tie Rod Ends start at $88.00

Click here to see the line up and MSRP.

(Kits are also available for G35 and 350Z)

As for caster adjustment for your 240sx you can upgrade to TEIN’s Pillowball Tension Rods.  The Pillowball type rods improves your acceleration and deceleration. Reason behind this is it controls the movement of the of the lower arms better than the OE bushings. Your steering response will improve, body roll will decrease and wheel alignment will stay more accurate.  The OE rods have huge rubber bushings which deteriorate badly causing unwanted movement and slop.

The tension rod (which are made of carbon steel, S45C) includes an adjustable turnbuckle with rubber encapsulated NMB pillowball bearing, which allows you to adjust the angle of the caster for a more precise alignment and increased strength.

Starting MSRP $290.oo

Click here for the full line up available.

Torque Your Dampers Pt. 1

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It seems that lately we have been receiving many questions in regards to how to torque our damper components, and what to torque them to.

This time around we’ll be covering the proper method of torquing the Lower Bracket Lock and Seat Locks.

The use of a table mounted vice and plastic soft jaws is highly recommended.

As you can see above, for Eye Ring type bushings, we have special plastic caps with magnets that sit on the inner sleeve of the bushing and protects the outer ring. This allows us to clamp this type of lower bracket to the vise.

 

 

 

We can also secure Fork type lower brackets onto the vise, like below:

However, DO NOT clamp Fork type lower brackets like below:

This can cause damage to the Fork, if improperly secured in this way.

Remember not to overtighten the vice, otherwise you will end up with some bent and possibly broken parts. The vice only needs to be tightened to the point that the damper will not move around while torquing the parts down.

We will also need the necessary tools to torque the various locks on the damper.
You will need:
1 Pair of TEIN ADJ Wrenches
&
1 Half-Inch Torque Wrench

As you can see here our ADJ Wrenches come with a square hole that is made to snap into a Half-Inch Torque Wrench:

Now that we have the damper mounted and the tools for the job setup we can move along to the actual torquing.

We’ll start off with Seat Locks that do the job of holding the spring up.
The torque for the Seat Locks is roughly the same for any and all TEIN Dampers, ranging from Basic Dampers to the Super Racing Dampers, or even the newer STREET BASIS Z/STREET ADVANCE Z and FLEX Z kits.
The torque spec for the Seat Locks is 41.7 +/- 1.8 ft-lb.

(*Please check your included coilover manual for actual torque specifications for your vehicle application)

After setting the spring height to where you want it to be, take the spare ADJ Wrench that isn’t hooked up to the Torque Wrench and hold the top Seat Lock, then with the Torque Wrench set to the proper torque setting tighten the bottom Seat Lock until you hear/feel the Torque Wrench click.

Simple enough.

Now, for those with full length adjustable dampers (e.g. FLEX/FLEX Z, MONO FLEX/MONO SPORT, SUPER RACING, etc.) you will also need to torque down the Seat Lock that holds the Lower Bracket in place.

The torque for the Lower Bracket Seat Lock differs between Strut and SA (Non-Strut) Dampers.
The torque spec for Strut Types range is from 101.2 to 115.7 (+/- 3.6) ft-lb.
The torque spec for SA Types is 50.7 +/- 1.8 ft-lb.

(*Please check your included coilover manual for actual torque specifications for your vehicle application)

Using only the ADJ Wrench and Torque Wrench combination is necessary for this Seat Lock.

For those that do not have a vice readily available, the next best way to torque down the Lower Bracket Lock is after the Dampers have been installed onto the vehicle.
Make sure all of the other bolts and nuts (e.g. Knuckle Bolts, Sway Bar Links, etc.) are torqued to manufacturer specs.
Turn the wheel so you have clear access to the Bracket Lock and no obstructions for the proper use of a Torque Wrench, then make sure to lock the steering wheel so that the Damper will not turn while being torqued.

Next time we will talk about the proper method and specs for torquing Top Nuts, Camber Plate Hex Bolts, and HAS (Height Adjustment System) Seat Locks.

TEIN’S Black Box

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In previous blogs we have discussed the difference between the old and new EDFC unit and motors, how to install the EDFC, how to read the error codes on the EDFC and featured vehicles with the EDFC installed.  However we have not discussed what this little black box does.

The EDFC, which stands for Electronic Damping Force Controller, controls the stiffness and softness of your suspension on the fly.  Whether you are on the track or on the street you can change your settings accordingly.  The unit has three presets for quick adjustments.  It has separate control buttons for front and rear adjustments, the ability to switch from 16 way adjustable to 32 way adjustable.  You can even change the brightness and volume of the control.  The EDFC DOES NOT lower or raise the vehicle.

If you have a Super Street (select applications), Super Street kit with Upper Pillow mounts, Flex, Mono Flex, Super Drift, Comfort Sport, Euro Damper and Super Racing Dampers the EDFC is compatible with your kit.

MSRP for Controller (EDK04-K4469)  $253.00

MSRP for Motor Kit (model depending on vehicle) $165.00

MSRP for Strut Kit (Recommended for vehicles with Strut type front only)  $33.00

EDFC Controller in Gordon Ting built Lexus ISF

What is a H.A.S.?

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Consumers sometimes question why TEIN does not make a true coil over shock design for the rear of some popular applications like 350Z, G35, RSX,’06+ Civic, FIT, BMW E36, E46, Mustang, etc… All these cars use a separate spring and shock design in the rear.

For these applications we have a H.A.S. (Height Adjustment System) which is a threaded sleeve that sits separately from the shock and still allows for ride height adjustment.

Some other smaller suspension companies may offer a true spring (coil) over shock design for the rears of these applications but let me tell you why TEIN does not.

TEIN engineers could easily make a spring over shock design and it would probably even be cheaper BUT this is not a SAFE choice.

First you have to understand the purpose of a spring versus shock/ strut.

Spring = controls weight, ride height

Shock/ Strut = controls speed of suspension movement

I am specifically talking about the separate spring and shock design here.

If we removed the shock and left the spring, the spring would still support the weight of the car. Now the car manufacturer reinforces the chassis where the spring is located because that area needs to support the weight car. The shock area does not need much reinforcement because it does not support much weight.  Maybe it will be okay for a few months but what about 2 yrs, 5 yrs, 10 yrs?

In this picture you can see the top of the shock for a vehicle that has a separate spring and shock design. There are not many welds or bracing in this area again because the manufacturer never intended it to support the vehicle’s weight.

Think about this. Vehicle manufacturers indicate specific pickup points when you jack up a car. One of the reasons for this is the floor of the car to too weak to support the weight of the vehicle. If you look under the car you will see that those specified pickup points have thicker reinforcing metal.

This probably looks familiar, a similar diagram is probably on a sticker or in the manual for every car.

Exceptions – TEIN has customized kits for certain customers and done away with the H.A.S. ONLY when the chassis has been reinforced at the shocks top mount. Usually this is done by adding another layer of steel to the chassis and a roll cage mounting point is nearby.

Normally this car uses a HAS design but with this type of reinforcement TEIN engineers have no worries converting it into a spring over shock type. You can see the added steel plating and roll cage all tied into the top mount of the suspension.

EDFC New Vs. Old PLUS Replacement Guide

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I wanted to make this post to show the differences between the older model EDFC controller (Silver unit) and the current model EDFC controller (Black unit) and give a little guide for replacing parts from each kit.
Side to Side. Older controller & motors on the left, new controller & motors on the right.
Showing the differences between the plugs used with each kit.

Comparisons of the bare motors side to side. Older on left, newer on right.
New Controller (Black Unit) Replacement Parts
Power Supply Cable: EDC01-F1320
Front Y-Cable: EDC01-F1321
Rear Y-Cable: EDC01-F1322
Intermediate Cable Front Right: EDC01-K3606
Intermediate Cable Front Left: EDC01-K3607
Intermediate Cable Rear Right: EDC01-K3608
Intermediate Cable Rear Left: EDC01-K3609
Old Controller (Silver Unit) Replacement Parts
Power Supply Cable: EDC01-F1320
Front Y-Cable: EDC01-F1321
Rear Y-Cable: EDC01-F1322
Intermediate Cable Front Right: EDC01-F1323
Intermediate Cable Front Left: EDC01-F1324
Intermediate Cable Rear Right: EDC01-F1346
Intermediate Cable Rear Left: EDC01-F1347

Replacement motors are available from our Online Shop & other replacement parts can be purchased from any of our Authorized Dealers.

Lowering Spring Installation Tips

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Many people assume that our S. Tech and High.Tech lowering springs do not need any special attention when being installed but that is incorrect.

Here are some tips to ensure your vehicle reaches the intended ride height and driving characteristics.

Note: we test fit and test drive all applications on OEM vehicles. So if your vehicle has an added turbo kit, audio system, heavy body kit, motor swap, basically anything that significantly adds or reduces weight you may not achieve the same results as from our testing.

Bump Rubber – needs to be modified as shown in our instructions. If the bump rubber is not modified as needed the ride height may not reach advertised drop and ride quality may be deminished due to lack of shock absorber stroke.

The OE bump rubbers may need to be trimmed to allow maximum stroke of the shock absorber in conjunction with the S.Tech or High.Tech lowering springs.

Spring Placement – placement needs to be the same as OEM. Front springs have a “F” in the beginning of the part number while rear springs have “R”. The part number should also be right side up. If the springs are not mounted correctly within the shock absorber perch or on the wrong side/ wrong shock  ride height/ performance/ comfort can be greatly affected.  Also check the OE rubber spring seats to insure they are positioned correctly as they shift during installation causing the ride height to be off. Certain applications do not require the use of OE rubber spring seats or rubber insulator on the lowering spring if the TEIN Silencer Rubber is included on the areas which would sit on the lower or upper spring seats.

The photo illustrates a High-Tech spring lined up correctly with the OE shock absorber.

Aftermarket Replacement Shock Absorbers – can be different in design causing the ride height to be higher or lower than advertised. Always use OE, or OE replacement shock absorbers to avoid any ride height or fitment issues. TEIN lowering springs are designed and developed to be used with OE shocks/struts.

Suspension Preload – During installation the suspension components should be tightened when the suspension has load. If not done correctly the ride height may be affected. This is especially important on multi-link suspension setups. Rubber or Poly bushings located in the suspension arms should be tightened when the arm is at its normal position which is when the car is on the ground. A lot of people tighten the suspension while at full droop (when the car is off the ground and suspension is hanging). Once the vehicle is placed back on the ground, the bushings twist and can cause a difference in ride height.

In this picture the car is off the ground and the suspension is preloaded by the floor jack. This sets all the rear left suspension components to their normal position and then all bolts are tightened.

We recommend a TEIN Authorized Dealer for installation and an alignment about a week after installation. You can find a complete list of TEIN Authorized Dealer HERE.

What to look for when buying USED coilovers

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Many consumers may be mislead into thinking that picking up a used set is always a better deal than buying new. If you are interested in purchasing a set of used TEIN coilovers here are some tips on what to look for to ensure you know what your getting into.

The best scenario is to buy from a local seller so you can physically inspect the dampers before purchase. Many of the inspection points cannot be seen through camera images. Hidden damage can be costly.

Damper body damage. If the body has damage (dent or crack) this cannot be repaired.

– Damaged or missing threads cannot be repaired. Our threaded sleeve is welded onto the damper or in the case above is the threads are part of the shock body.

Rust. Light to moderate rust may not be too big of an issue but if the rust is excessive the dampers may require pre dis-assembly during service to determine if any of the rust has moved inside the damper. If the damper has heavy rust it is deemed not repairable. We will not service any item we feel has any safety risk.

Oil Leaks. Any type of oil leak is an indication that the oil seal is damaged and must be replaced which is an automatic overhaul (starting at $75 each depending on product model).

This is easily recognizable as an oil leak as dirt and grim has stuck to the leaking oil.

Piston Rod Damage. Light scuffs or scratched on the piston rod may be buffed out but  scoring,  pitting, or bent piston shafts would require a replacement. Replacement requires a new piston shaft and overhaul (Overhaul $75+ and Piston Rod $45+).

Large pit on the Piston Rod. Needs replacement.

Bent piston shaft most likely from a car accident. Piston rod needs replacement and possibly other internal components as well. During inspection make sure the shock body and lower bracket are not damaged.

Poor maintenance. Seized or corroded seat locks may indicate little to no maintenance to the damper (may require the locks to be removed by either force which may break the lock or would need to be cut off and replaced).

Damaged bump stops and dust boots would indicate low ride height on the coilover. This could break down the bump stop and dust boot over time and can lodge pieces from either part between the main seal and the piston shaft causing damage to the seal. (Replacement Bump Stops and Dust Boots start at $12 each).

Signs of poor maintenance means that you need to pay special attention to the piston rod for damage. Broken dust boots, bump rubbers and excessive dirt are indicators that the piston rod was not properly protected leaving it more prone for damage.

Pillow mounts. If equipped with pillow mounts check for wear and excessive movement. Damage to mounting plate is not repairable. The only three serviceable items on a pillow mount are the serration bolts, pillowball casing and camber adjustment bolts.

Missing Parts. Many times used items are sold incomplete. If the unit is damping force adjustable make sure the adjustment knobs are intact. Some kits include sway bar link rods, rear Height Adjustment Systems (HAS), brake brackets, camber washers, etc… Ensure that the kit comes with the hook spanner wrenches use to adjust ride height. Installation manuals can be downloaded from our homepage here. It is a good idea to take a look at the manual prior to inspecting a used kit for purchase  so you know what the kit should come with. Replacing missing parts can add up quickly.

Damping Force Check. With the springs removed you can compress the damper. There should be smooth movement both on compression and rebound. If the damper does not automatically rebound, it probably has a blown seal and is in need of an overhaul. If the damper is damping force adjustable, try it at full stiff and full soft. There should be a difference in resistance or speed of movement.

Remember when inspecting used products that every little missing item, or damage is money you will need to spent to repair or replace it. A set of dampers needing repairs can easily add up to a total price exceeding the cost of a new kit. The key is to be prepared and know what your getting into.

TEIN does offer inspection service at our two facilities. Inspection on dampers is free of charge just shipping costs would incur to and from the TEIN facility.