Cleaning and Maintaining Your Suspension

Alright, so plenty of you may still have a lot of time on your hands due to being stuck at home due to COVID-19, even though our country seems to be opening up to business as usual. But still, it is forcing many “non-essential” (man, that really doesn’t sound nice) businesses to remain closed, and many of you without much to do.

This really has led to a lot of our customers taking the time to do some vehicle maintenance, which is great since we highly recommend you check your suspension.

As we have mentioned in the past, we recommend periodic inspections of your coilovers. For customers in drier climates, typically twice a year is good. While areas in cold or very wet areas should inspect at least 4 times out of the year, or at least after the wet season.

Getting chance to fully disassemble your suspension would be great. This lets you get to all the individual components- bare shock absorber, spring seats/seat locks, springs, upper mount, dust boots, bump stops, eye ring bushings, pillowball mounts, etc. and give them a good cleaning, or replacement if necessary. Sounds like a lot of work, which it is. But for some of us, this can be a rewarding task and help keep your vehicle road-worthy.

With an adjustable suspension kit, so many movable/removable parts should be checked, like spring seats and seat locks- making sure they’re able to move freely on the threads and also finally torqued to specification. Making sure the threads on the damper bodies are clear of debris prevents the spring seats/seat locks from seizing in place. Some consumers believe that because we use aluminum spring seats/seat locks on a steel threaded body will lead to them seizing because they’re two dissimilar materials (galvanic corrosion). However, that is not the case. Our aluminum spring seats and seat locks are hard anodized (forming aluminum oxide on the surface), and our threaded damper bodies are either chrome plated (older models) or coated with our ZT coating (and based coated with zinc). This will prevent potential issues with galvanic corrosion. So, please check to make sure the threads of the damper body, as well as the spring seat/seat locks are clean. Lastly, a little bit of lubricant on the threads is actually important, not just to prevent seizing, but to allow proper torque application when tightening. Anything from a light distillate (WD-40 is very common and readily available), or even a little bit of oil, will work just fine.

Even with that said, wet/coastal areas, or areas with snowfall will require a bit more maintenance, and actual cleaning of threaded components, as salts can eat away at aluminum and steel, and even cause the metal surfaces to expand slightly causing seized seat locks. You can use car wash detergents to clean these threads, and dampers in general. Again, even WD-40, which will displace water and lightly lubricate components, works well (we’d just apply this after any type of cleaning you do).

Also, it’s a good time to check the overall condition of your coilovers coated (painted) surfaces and making sure there is no peeling, scratched off surfaces, etc. For our green powder paint, customers can touch up surface blemishes with spray paints that are commercially available (Krylon or Rustoleum enamel; Meadow Green paint color).

A full disassembly lets you assess the condition of all individual components for your coilover and check if any part needs replacement. Also lets you give it a good detailed cleaning.

Lastly, and as a note for you TEIN suspension owners, if you need any assistance with your suspension or need replacement parts, or need the torque specifications for coilover kit, give us a call at 562-861-9161 Monday-Friday (9a-6p PST), or email us at tus_sales@tein.com. We’re open during this time, and we’ll do our best to help you out!

Maintaining Your Investment

We know the purchase of coil-over kits can be an expensive investment, whether you’re buying our product line or a competitor’s. Some have to save up for the purchase while others can buy at their leisure. Nevertheless, maintaining your investment should never be overlooked.

Dirt and debris can potentially be caught in between the seat lock and threads. This can cause the seat locks to “Freeze” if you will, making it very difficult to remove or adjust your ride height. Even worse, dirt/debris can get caught in between the piston rod and seal prematurely damaging the damper(s). The seal will then eventually tear, causing the gas and oil to be released, making the damper(s) unusable and you as a customer very upset and irritated.

We recommend our coil-over systems to be periodically cleaned. You can hose down the dampers or put some love and elbow grease in to it and really detail them. Particularly focus on the piston rod and threads on the shock body. We also recommend to overhaul your damper(s) every 35,000 miles or three years. The internal gas, oil, and seals will be replaced. Doing so will prolong the life span of the dampers.

Keep in mind that upgrading your suspension and not maintaining it is like buying a new Porsche and never washing it. Or getting a new paint job and not waxing it. I can go on and on with similarities.

With that said,……Save your self a headache and  clean your darn suspension!!!

Oh, and of course, if you have any questions regarding overhauls, please feel free to shoot over an inquiry to tus_sales@tein.com!

 

TEIN Damper Maintenance

Hey everyone, just here to give everyone tips on proper maintenance of your TEIN coilovers.  Before that I just want to mention a couple  Overhaul Customers who may have had a chance to read up on my previous post regarding the packing of dampers being sent in for repairs. Check out the pics below of the creative packing that did not go unnoticed.

Two thumbs up to Jason M. and Marshall J. for the unique and well packed repairs.

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A lot of folks seem to think that overall maintenance is not required for you coilovers but that is wrong. OE shocks and struts may not require maintenance since they do not have adjustable adjustable parts.

Overlooking the maintenance can cause issues with seized parts such as seat locks, lower adjusting brackets, pillowball mount bearing and casing, etc…   Even though we use special coatings on various components it is still possible for debris and/or moisture to build up and cause serious damage.

Periodic maintenance of dampers and components can prevent many future issues such as thread damage, seized parts, rusting and blown seals.  Regular maintenance will definitely save your high dollar investment and prolong product life.

Routine Maintenance while the units are still on the vehicle:

– Basic wipe down or dirt removal. Can be down with a plastic bristle brush, rags, compressed air, etc…

– Lubrication

Specific areas to clean are the threaded section, upper mounts and lower brackets.

At this time we also suggest a visual inspection of dust boot, mount bushings, spring seats, and bolts/ nuts.

Seasonal or annual major maintenance – with the dampers off the vehicle.

– Full dis-assembly of unit to clean and lube all parts.

– If there is really stubborn debris  or damage you can use a wire wheel brush*.

– If rust is found, the rust should be completely removed** and the effected areas repainted.

*When using a wire wheel do not put too much pressure as it could brush away the coating which would allow corrosion and rust to form easily. (The picture provided below demonstrate the removal of some oxidation and rust on the threaded sleeve portion. The seat locks should be removed when cleaning all damper conditions).

**Parts cleaner or any heavy duty de-greasers are not recommended as they could eat away at the powder coating, stripping the damper to bare metal, as well as erase the ink print on the stickers and maybe even remove some coating on the threaded body.

Lubrication

Lubrication should be applied to threaded sleeve, seat locks , and other parts.

For lubricant of choice, we use either a light film of Lithium Grease or a Rust Inhibitor.True the grease may attract more debris but it will keep a longer lasting barrier than some Rust Inhibitors.  Just be sure to wipe off any overspray or excess grease to avoid any confusion  thinking the dampers are leaking oil or build up of debris. For Pillowball Mounts the grease is the best choice as it would help decrease the bearing  noise and provide protection against protection.

All in all keeping the dampers clean and lubed will save you from any expensive repairs, down time, and headaches.